Musical (designers) chairs – who’s in, who’s out?

For some years now, the international fashion scene looks like a gigantic (and very fashionable, indeed) musical chairs game. Some designers left their own labels, some have started new ones, while others are just turning the page and getting a new challenge in a different chair. In 2025, we are eager to find out how the catwalks will look like – with debuts from Peter Copping at Lanvin, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Michael Rider at Celine, Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein, Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta – just to name a few.

If it wasn’t for fashion industry, maybe the rotation of CEOs and heads of creative departments wouldn’t count so much – but, in the aesthetic world, to be in the position to run a fashion house with years of tradition behind (as Dior, Chanel or Gucci) it is very important. First if all, the eyes of loyal buyers and customers will scrutinize (and criticize) the new collections sent on the catwalk; secondly, we have to take into the consideration that, sometimes, the shoes to fill are pretty big for some of them – I mean, how can you be creative when all the legacy of Miss Gabrielle Chanel or Mister Christian Dior is weighting on your shoulders?! Let’s meet three of the designers that will begin a new chapter of style in 2025 at Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford.

Who, where, why? First big move of the year: Matthieu Blazy (born 1984, a French-Belgian designer) at Chanel. Well, we have to say that it was a bit of surprise, as long as the rumors about who is going to take the most desired job in fashion considered Hedi Slimane and Simon Porte Jacquemus the front runners. “Chanel has appointed Matthieu Blazy as its artistic director of the house’s fashion activities, responsible for all haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections”, the French house announced at the end of 2024, putting an end to months of intense speculation, after the sudden departure of Virginie Viard in June 2024. He will report to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel Fashion and Chanel SA. Alain Wertheimer, global executive chairman, and Leena Nair, global CEO of Chanel, called the designer in a joint statement “one of the most gifted designers of his generation”. “His audacious personality, his innovative and powerful approach to creation, as well as his dedication to craftsmanship and beautiful materials, will take Chanel in exciting new directions”, Pavlovsky said in the official statement.

A little bit of history career of Matthieu Blazy…

Blazy attended Pangbourne College for a year and graduated from La Cambre fashion school in Brussels. He did his internships at Balenciaga and John Galliano. In 2011, Blazy became a designer at Maison Margiela (at a time when the design team was anonymous), and in November 2014, he joined Phoebe Philo’s team as senior designer of Céline. In 2016 Blazy was appointed design director of women’s ready-to-wear of Calvin Klein. But his to-be-seen period was that one of Bottega Veneta – first, as design director of ready-to-wear department (as Daniel Lee’s right hand), then as creative director – his first collection for the Italian house in February 2022. He was rarely photographed. He didn’t hang out with celebrities. “You can’t keep such a talent under wraps,” Suzy Menkes wrote in British Vogue.

The icon pieces that defined the style of Matthieu Blazy…

For years, Matthieu Blazy was a fashion ghost: a specter whispered about but rarely seen. “The most famous designer you’ve never heard of,” New York magazine said in 2014. Under Blazy, Bottega Veneta became one of Milan’s hottest brands, with a strong focus on craftsmanship. Blazy brought an inclusive management style, shrank the design team, and got the craftspeople involved in the creative process. He introduced the trompe-l’œil denim leather pants (2021), the intrecciato-woven handbags Kalimero (2022), the knitted leather sock-slippers (2023). Under his creative wand, sales were up 4 per cent in the first nine months of 2024 to 1,23 billion euros, making it the top-performing brand among Kering’s fashion houses. The Spring/Summer 2025 show was well received, with standouts including creased pieces, striped shirting, fluid all-leather evening dress and more.

The legacy to fulfill…

Chanel will be a much bigger test for the designer, who will join the house in 2025. The company’s revenues hit 19,7 billion euros in 2023, up 16% year-on-year, making it the world’s second-largest luxury brand after Louis Vuitton. “I am thrilled and honoured to join the wonderful house of Chanel. I look forward to meeting all the teams and writing this new chapter together,” Blazy said. Virginie Viard, who had worked with Lagerfeld at the fashion house for over 30 years, took the lead between 2019-2024. Before her, Karl Lagerfeld was the one who “reinvented” the house of Chanel (chief designer from 1983 to 2019). Coco Chanel (the founder) ruled the house until her death in January 1971.

CHAPTER 2

Who, where, why? Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta.

Blazy moved to Chanel. Therefore, a new talent is needed to fill the empty spot at the Italian house and that name was Louise Trotter, a British designer with an appetite for innovation and for… expansion (if we look at her financial results at Joseph, for once). Leo Rongone, CEO of Bottega Veneta, said: “I am pleased to welcome Louise as our new Creative Director. Her aesthetic seamlessly combines exquisite design with sublime craft and her commitment to cultural advocacy aligns beautifully with our brand vision. Through her sophisticated lens, Bottega Veneta will continue to celebrate its heritage while preserving modern relevance”.

A little bit of history career of Louise Trotter…

Now based in Paris full-time, the Sunderland-born designer studied marketing and design at Newcastle Polytechnic. She was the vice-president of womenswear design at Gap in New York, then became head of womenswear at Calvin Klein, before taking a design role at Tommy Hilfiger. She joined the British brand Jigsaw as creative director in 2007, with her first collection for the label, which was well received by the fashion press. In 2009, she took the helm at Joseph, moving to Paris – Trotter is also widely credited with an instrumental role in the brand’s international expansion. In 2018 Louise Trotter joined Lacoste as the brand’s first female creative director. In February 2023, Carven appointed Trotter as creative director – a short adventure (Carven had some financiar problems), and in 2024, Trotter was appointed creative director at Kering-owned Bottega Veneta.

The icon pieces that defined the style of Louise Trotter…

To start first with the legacy of Bottega Veneta that is going to weight on Trotter’ shoulders… From the beginning, the Italian brand adopted a “When your own initials are enough” slogan, which means that instead of a logo, the brand signs its pieces by how they are made, focusing on quality, design, discreet elegance, and craftsmanship that helped the brand achieve success in the 60s and the 70s.

What about Louise Trotter? “I like things to be practical and useful and beautiful at the same time”, said Louise Trotter when she show her collection of Carven. A vision accorded to the Italian Bottega Veneta philosophy, we might say. Prior to that, she was the creative director at Lacoste – where, with her first collection (autumn 2019), she injected the French sportswear institution with a kind of elegance unfussy and grounded, showing pleated silk dresses underneath oversized cable-knit vests and unexpected colors and offbeat materials. Not to forget that Trotter is also widely credited with an instrumental role in the Joseph international expansion – she spent nine years at this brand, growing its revenue and establishing a fuss-free uniform for working women informed by menswear (the trousers she designed at Joseph still enjoy cult status!).

The legacy to fulfill…

Bottega Veneta was founded in 1966 in Vicenza, Italy, by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro. The brand’s primary product was leather goods. Shortly after Zengiaro left Bottega Veneta in the late 70s, the founders transferred the brand into the hands of Taddei’s former wife, Laura Moltedo, who became the creative director. In 1995, Edward Buchanan joined the brand as design director; after 6 years was replaced by Giles Deacon In 2001, Bottega Veneta was acquired by the Gucci Group (now Kering). The same year, Thomas Maier was appointed as Bottega’s creative director. In 2018, Daniel Lee took over as creative director and helped revive the brand – “The New Bottega” era begun. In 2021, Matthieu Blazy became the new creative director and made his debut with the fall/winter 2022 fashion show staged in Milan. In 2025 Louise Trotter took the head designer chair.

CHAPTER 3

Who, where, why? Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford.

That’s a titanic move. First of all, because of the legendary Tom Fords, the designer who reinvented Gucci and made his aestethic desirable for a whole generations of fashionista… Second of all, because Haider Ackermann has his own kind of fashion moodboard (just remember any outfit worn by Tilda Swinton and you’ll have the perfect idea). “It is with tremendous pride that I will seek to honor the legacy of Tom Ford, a man I have long admired and have the utmost respect for”, said Ackermann. “We are thrilled to welcome Haider Ackermann to Tom Ford”, William P. Lauder, executive chairman of ELC, said in a statement to Vogue Business. “Haider’s appointment strengthens our ambitions for this enormously successful brand. His unique and insightful vision will further enhance the house’s global impact on fashion and culture.” Ford, who founded his eponymous brand in 2005, stepped down in 2023 following its 2,8 billion dollars sale to ELC the previous year.

A little bit of history career of Haider Ackermann

Born in Bogotá, Colombia, and adopted by a French family, Ackermann went to Belgium yo study fashion design at Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp (from where he was expelled after three years). But, nevertheless, he did a five months internship for John Galliano and worked then for various brands, the Belgian designer Wim Neels, Bernhard Willhelm, Mayerline. In 2001, Ackermann created his own label and presented his first women’s wear collection in March 2001 during Paris Fashiuon Week. He drew attention, therefore he was hired by house Ruffo, then later on she signed with Belgian group bvba 32 and set up his studio in Paris. Ackermann was one of the designers approached to succeed Galliano at Dior or even following Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel. In 2010, Ackermann launched a one-off menswear collection during the Pitti in Florence. Ackermann joined Berluti as creative director in September 2016. Recent employment has included roles at Maison Ullens, Fila and an ongoing partnership with Canada Goose, where Ackermann’s first capsule as creative director has launched at the end of 2024. And at the same time, Tom Ford announced him as the new creative director.

The icon pieces that defined the style of Haider Ackermann…

Let’s start with this: fall 2025 will mark Ackermann’s first collection with the brand Tom Ford and is set to show during Paris Fashion Week in March of 2025. And, somehow, we think that he will nail it. And I can get you more arguments in favour. First of all, just to point out that Tilda Swinton, the queen of coolness is his loyal customer since his beginnings in fashion and that Timothée Chalamet had Ackermann as his personal stylist for the red carpet appearances for some years now. Second of all, Ackermann’s fashion contrasts and blends dress codes – the simple cuts of his creations were often asymmetric and sewn of different materials. Thirdly, his own aesthetic overlapped a profound sensuality with strict rigor – and that is exactly what Tom Ford did with his sexy uber-cool but somehow austere. Some of the fashion critics of the fashion scene called Ackermann once “the new Yves Saint-Laurent”. Well, we expect a new Tom Ford this year.

The legacy to fulfill…

“A perfect match for a sexy brand?” asked The New York Times. “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all, he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand. I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March”, said Tom Ford as the news hit the stands. Following Ford’s graceful exit, the brand was initially helmed by Peter Hawkings — a company veteran who had worked under the founder for nearly 25 years. He exited suddenly this past July. Estée Lauder (ELC) acquired Tom Ford in 2022.